'Un-PC'. How many times have you heard this hateful pseudo-word? And yet the opposite of 'PC' (politically correct) is clearly 'PI' (politically incorrect). I just thought I'd mention that.
We were recently taught an interesting phrase, which is apparently in common use: Tengo tanto hambre que comeria un gitano por los pies. In English this would be 'I'm so hungry, I'd eat a gypsy, feet first.'
Spain is, largely, a happy and positive place, welcoming to all and very relaxed, and so it can be difficult sometimes to see why these phrases (not to mention the more or less continuous swearing about virgins, whores and shitting) are so prevalent.
All very interesting for the language learner, though. Imagine: a country more sweary than the UK...
GG
Food glorious food
Blu Bar in Almuñecar is a fusion-food restaurant we literally stumbled into during a weekend at the seaside.Delicious fruity salads, real Italian pasta, many veggie/vegan options including a set menu and the kind of wine where you want to steal the empty bottle afterwards so that you'll be able to find the exact same label again somewhere.
No crappy striplights here, either - the decor is colourful and made up of all sorts of recycled novelties and groovy artwork.
Highly recommended! GG
Blu Bar, c/ Alta del Mar, 10, Almuñecar, 18690 GranadaTelephone 958 634 530
¡Mejor en bici! / Better by bike!
Despite a lapse in the sunshine we had a fantastic day out on 17 February, cycling with new friends from the Granada Via Verde bike group.Although Andalucia has seen too much road construction and the destruction of natural habitats in recent decades, many old country tracks and caminos do still exist - meaning that many beautiful places are easily discovered on foot or by bike.
We had a day out without cars (always a relief!) cycling through the rural areas of La Vega, Atarfe and Albolote to the lake at Cubillas where we ate our picnic lunch and found a bar for coffee.
The day with its grey skies reminded us a little of being in Derbyshire or Scotland - but then with the huge, snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada always visible in the distance, you know you're not in the UK anymore...
Our thanks to everyone in the group for inviting us along, putting up with our faltering Spanish and showing us some of the local countryside. (David tells us there are many, many more routes to explore this spring and summer!)Our thanks also to Pilar for very welcome hot chocolate and pancakes at the end of the day. See the Granada Via Verde website for route details and photos.
Welcome visitors!
By good fortune we met Milan and his canine friend Mano (pronounced Mono) in the Albaicin quarter a couple of weeks ago. They're new arrivals in Granada and we were more than happy to have them over for a few days.
What kind of dog is Mano? It's anyone's guess! Mono in Spanish means 'monkey' and also 'cute'. ¡Que mono eres, Mano!Amongst other things, Milan - originally from Hungary - is an accomplished photographer. That's his portrait of Mano, above. Here's more of his work. GG
When Techno DJ Jeff Mills came to town...
...We were there! Jeff is just such a good DJ. Techno at its very best... GG
Of course I'll do it - but who gets to play 'The Snake'?
Wow! A flyer accepted and a gig offered, both at once! On the strength of a 30-minute sample CD (track listing below) and some e-flyer ideas (final versions will be here soon) my alias Double Decca has been invited to play some tracks alongside Granada's DJ Oscar later this month, and to help publicise the gig.I'm hoping that Jesús will play records, too - he was great last time - though we really need an all-nighter to do it justice. The bar usually closes at 4 am...
So, if you're here in Granada, please be there on 29th from midnight for the Soul Ska Shakedown Party - and bring your mates...
Friday, 29 February, Bar Aterriza Como Puedas, c/ Lavadero de las Tablas, 15 (off c/ Tablas). GG
That sample CD track listing:
Intro: The Double Deckers TV theme
The Specials: Do the Dog (Double Decca extended mix feat. Brian Dog)
The Ballistic Brothers: Peckings
The Jamaicans: Ba-Ba-Boom Time
Mr Bloe: Groovin' with Mr Bloe (Greg Wilson remix)
Madness: Sorry (Diesel Tribe house remix)
Diana Ross: Love Hangover
Melba Moore: Magic Touch
The Soul Leaders: Mother's Advice/Shoparound
Musical Youth: Rockers
Tony Clarke: Landslide
Outro: Madness: The Prince (instrumental)/The Double Deckers TV theme
We're not blocking the traffic - we ARE traffic
Fancy dress at last! Elaine was an angel and having already been a sailor (July 2007) I was a pirate for our first ever fancy-dress Critical Mass bike ride in Granada on 1 February.
Unlike Barcelona, Granada is poorly-equipped for bikes - and this is a shame, because in this small, compact, and mostly flat city, bikes should be the first choice for everyone. They used to be: we've seen the photos of the streets in the 1920s.
But, like almost everywhere else in Europe (the UK included), the car remains king. To make things worse, here in Andalucia motorists can do whatever they want with total impunity. The police do nothing to stop them speeding along narrow streets, driving while using mobile phones, parking in bus bays, on pavements, on zebra crossings...The Masa Critica is a monthly mobile party, to demonstrate the efficiency and usefulness of the true vehicle of the future: the bike. The city's pedestrians were very supportive (especially kids, who love bikes, and older people, who remember a time when cars were rarer and streets were safer).
Even many of the drivers, sitting in their plastic seats, going nowhere at all in the nightly traffic jam, showed their support as we zipped past them: one wonders how much longer they can tolerate the boring, dangerous nightmare they have helped to create.
Here in Granada there really are no excuses: one can easily cycle from one end of the city to the other in 30 minutes, and there are frequent urban and inter-urban buses to everywhere else.
And in fact in Granada - as in the UK - there are already more bikes than cars. It's time to bring them out of the garages and off the balconies and onto the streets!
More video (spot Elaine's angel wings!), pics and information (in Spanish) at Granada Via Verde. GG
"I just want to hear something I haven't heard before"
And so John Peel wins our first blog poll, with 35 per cent of the votes. We agree: he must have been an excellent dinner guest.We're sure you'll agree that the world would be a better place if there were more men in it like John and the others in our poll.
If you don't know who John was and is, the BBC can help you.
Our new poll (see right) gives you a chance to vote for the worst song of all time.Poll 1 results
Which of these true leaders of men would you choose to invite to dinner at your house?
1. John Peel (35%)
2. David Atenborough (30%)
3. Michael Palin (15%)
=4. Rolf Harris (10%)
=4. Spike Milligan (10%)
GG
From soul to soulless: The best and the worst of Granada's nightlife
We have experienced the best and the worst of Granada's nightlife, in one night and with the same group of friends.As always we begin with the positive, and so to cool Airplane-themed bar Aterriza Como Puedas ("Land however you can") with DJ Oscar. On certain Saturday nights he plays funk and soul 45s to a small but appreciative crowd on a downstairs dance floor.
Oscar effortlessly mixes classics like Gloria Jones' Tainted Love with more obscure Northern Soul numbers and a whole host of funk and disco records. It works well. Beats are matched. Everybody dances. When the bar starts to close at 4 am, everybody complains and demands 'one more tune'. This is always a good sign.
All that's needed here is a later finish and better advance publicity. It's obvious that Oscar puts the hours in. He has real talent and a record box to die for. His mate Jesús has also played at the same bar, and he too needs more exposure. (How about a Soul Allnighter sometime, lads? Watch this space!)And so to Sugarpop, the lamest disco I have ever inadvertently stumbled into. The only positive things to say about this place are that the staff and crowd are friendly and that the central heating seems to work okay. The music is 'una mezcla' (a mixture of everything - as if this could ever be a good idea): imagine terrible rock and pop records from the 1980s and 1990s, including worthless B-sides, played in no discernible order at half-volume and with a nice gap between each one.
Whoever is choosing these records has no idea how music works or even what tunes will keep drunks happy. The 'sound system' is barely audible with no bass element whatsoever, and it's quite possible that the playlist is fixed in advance and played straight from a tape.
Look, at 5 am on a Sunday in a place where you have to pay to get in, the only music being played should be excellent dance music of one kind or another, not this lame shit. Question: How can someone who has clearly never danced to anything be allowed to work as a DJ? Does he or she get paid for this?During a wasted hour at Sugarpop I heard just two or three ostensibly good records - something by the Killers, something by the Jam - but A Town Called Malice followed after a short pause by some heavy metal number and then by Friday I'm in Love by the Cure is just not funny.
Don't get me wrong, I've been to many kitsch Spanish clubs before (and, indeed, Chinese ones) where everyone laughs and dances along to native pop and daft songs by the Buggles and Gloria Gaynor; not my cup of tea but in those places everyone has a good time, for sure. And it's good sometimes to not take music too seriously (right, Ol?).
Sugarpop, however, is just a room full of bored people waiting for something to happen, with the world's crappiest jukebox for a DJ. I've had more fun waiting for a bus in the rain. If you visit me in Granada and I suggest going to Sugarpop 'for a laugh', take me outside and shoot me. But make sure I introduce you to DJ Oscar and his friends first! GG
Aterriza Como Puedas is on c/ Lavadero de las Tablas, (off c/ Tablas) and just 2 minutes' walk from Plaza Trinidad, central Granada. There is a separate bar upstairs and they sometimes show short films too.
Sugarpop is somewhere nearby, but who cares? Just stay in instead and randomly search YouTube for old pop videos: it's loads more fun and free, too.
Sun and Snow - on to the peaks of the Sierra Nevada
The Sierra Nevada. At last. As you can see we didn't even wait to put a blog entry on to put the photos up. We have glimpsed it from afar almost every day we've been here. You can see it on the horizon from the very centre of the city. And at last we got up there and stamped our feet into the snow. And it was good, very good indeed. Even the sunburn.
We caught a bus that took 40 minutes to take us up to Pradollano, the 70's ski resort town on the highest road in Europe. Pradollano itself is at 2100 metres above sea level.
We didn't go skiing, or snowboarding. We had a beer, took a microbus up as high as we could and walked past all the sledgers and people picnicking next to their cars on the roadside (why would you do that in a place like this? They had their own tables and chairs and... everything). After fifteen minutes' walking we couldn't hear a single person or car horn or expletive.
Then we had lunch and cups of real tea looking out over the valley towards Guejar Sierra. Lacking crampons, we crunched through the snow following footprints that told us we wouldn't fall off a cliff edge or into a ravine. Later we went back down into town and had pizza.
It's a good life. ES
Monachil - 30 minutes away and 1 euro on the bus...
Last weekend we headed up to Monachil, a pueblo on the outskirts of Granada. On the outskirts of the village, walking up towards Los Cahorros gorge, there is a smallholding where we encountered the techno goats last October.
Unfortunately the goats weren't there this time (maybe they were at a rave?) although we did meet a man leading a donkey laden with hay. That was quite country.
Los Cahorros is stunning. Rocky outcrops, a deep valley with a river winding through it and a pretty scary suspension rope bridge. After the rope bridge is a path that sticks out from the sides of the gorge with the river on the other side. It's not high, it's not deep but there are bits that you have to climb round or under, and La Cueva de las Palomas (the cave of the pigeons/doves - depending on how romantic you like your names to be) to pass through. It's ace!
Then you reach the valley, from where there are a variety of walks high and low, forest or mountain (or both). We headed up and found a high meadow to have lunch, a doze and be stared at by a billy goat.
On our way back we bumped into a Scottish lad who takes mountain bike tours up into the hills around Monachil. Looked like a lot of fun, I think we'll be popping in to see him at some point.
Incidentally it was fiesta weekend in Monachil, and although we didn't stay for the festivities we were told that one of the highlights was the climbing the greasy pole to win a pig competition. We ain't in Barcelona now... ES
More photos of Monachil
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